Well, I updated WordPress. Like clockwork, another stylesheet bit the dust: fonts were all whacked out, menus not working properly, and who knows what else. It was a bit disappointing, but it seems inevitable these days, and at least replacement templates that (mostly) work straight out of the box are common enough.
I’ve settled for what you see now, for the moment. (That is, if you’re reading on the page itself.) It has most of what I want, except for a nicely navigable menu at the header. (There’s supposed to be one, but it’s not showing up, and the submenus aren’t showing up on the bottom. Plus some other little things I can live with for now, really.)
For the moment, just in case anyone needs it, I’ve popped the full menu to the bottom of the sidebar.